How do you attach your CI to power supply?

[Jonathon Davis]

Just looking for ideas on how you folks attach your CI to the negative power wire.

I'm using SS S hangers for skillets with handles, but I'm more interested to know how you folks hang DO's, lids, and other odd shaped items that doesn't necessarily have a hole you can hang from.

Words are great and pictures are even better. Thanks for help in advance!

[Cheryl Watson]

Jonathan, I used to use S hooks, but do not anymore. (Had problems with serious arcing in the electro in the curve of the hook).  I will post some pictures later, possibly tomorrow. Doing Taxes....  :( :'( >:(

PS, a picture of your electro may be helpful also....

[Duke Gilleland]

SMALL "C" clamps with which I attach a jumper made out of # 10 insulated solid wire. I always clean the areas of the cast iron where I clamp the wire.

[Paul Beer]

I attach a clamp and then hook the  iron hook in the clamp and the other end of the hook over a PC pipe that lays over the top of the tank. I use the negative clamp from the battery charger and clamp it on the item and lower the whole thing in the water. The C clamp just acts like the hole or handle you would otherwise use. Not at my home right now but if you want a picture can do Monday.

[Russell Ware]

Here are 2 shots of a lid I currently have in the electro bath. The stainless steel bar is from an old composter. I bent some stainless steel all-thread in the shape of an "L." Then used a coupler to secure it to the eye-hooks. One of the hooks supports the handle of the lid being cleaned. The other catches right under the lip around the rim.

[Cheryl Watson]

I started out hanging items using SS "S" hooks, but had problems with arcing.... no pretty

[Cheryl Watson]

So I now use different methods for different pieces.

Skillets, and handled items...

[Cheryl Watson]

For the different sized items, I use a non-conductive hanger, and then attach a jumper wire to carry the (-) current.

[Cheryl Watson]

Hang a DO.... although now I use a non conductive hook and jumper...

[Jerry Cermack]

Here are pictures of my not so pretty but simple to use, cheap to make, hangers that have worked well for many years.  I have a plastic 55 gal drum and use a 1 x 3" wood board with holes drilled in it that sets across the top of the barrel.  I have a sheet of stainless steel curled as a liner inside my barrel, with a stainless steel piece of tubing bolted to the liner that extends above the water level to attach the positive clamp. 
I use 12" long threaded rods, either 1/4" dia. or 5/16" dia.  Wing nuts, hex nuts, and washers.  For things with handles with holes in them, I bend a threaded rod on one end to 90 degrees and can attach a skillet through a handle hole.  For other items, I have a heavy duty spring clamp bolted to one end of a threaded rod.  I use the spring clamp the most on any and everything anymore, including Lids.  By using threaded rod, I can also adjust the depth an item suspends into the soup if needed.  Lowes for the rods, nuts and washers and flea markets for clamps.... ;D

[Jerry Cermack]

Other hanger

[Mark Zizzi]

I do it like Duke does..c-clamp the bared end of a jumper wire to the piece. I do like Cheryls jumper wires though...think I'll make up a couple like them.  ;)

[Cheryl Watson]

Mark, I buy the wire by the foot (stranded copper) at the Local Hardware Store. 
(I was in the other day, and they wanted to know where I've been hiding!... "You gotta need more stuff soon"! they said.... they think I'm the Mad Scientist.... ::) ::))

I make sure I select wire rated for 20 AMP or higher...

PS... those non conductive S hooks are encased in clear plastic tubing, to render them non conductive.   I have several coils of the plastic tubing, all different ID.  Get that at the local HW store too.

[Jonathon Davis]

Thanks for the replies everyone! And another thanks for all the pictures. It's very helpful to have an image to generate ideas from.

Cheryl, here's a picture of my setup. Still changing things up and trying to make the setup easier to use. I've got hanging skillets down pat.

Next up is a couple dutch ovens and lids!

[Bob Henrick]

Looks like it is working well for you Jonathan. Is that an old gate marked skillet? Looks great!

[Corinne Wetzel]

This question is for Cheryl, or for anyone else who knows what this piece of hardware is called:

Cheryl, I really like the secure way you've set up your electro connections. My set up with hooks lacks efficiency and results in a bit of arcing, so I want to try your bolt and washer approach.

Today at the hardware store, I bought the metal strap, washers, bolts, and nuts. But I couldn't find a part resembling the one in your right hand photo that show the threaded rod and the strap. It's the rounded piece that holds the metal strap onto the threaded rod.

What's that part called, and what section of the hardware store did you find it in? 

Thank you!

Corinne

[Jim Fuchs]

   Corinne, Thomas & Betts, and others make what they call a one hole emt (electrical conduit) pipe strap. Try the electrical section. Any Home Depot or Lowes should have them in their electrical department. Cheryl shows using a 3/8" one. Hope this helps. I think that's your talking about. :)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-8-in-Flexible-Metal-Conduit-FMC-1-Hole-Conduit-Straps-10-Pack-26211/100193552

[Corinne Wetzel]

That's exactly the part I was asking about.  I'll pick up a package tomorrow and get my new, improved electro going. Thank you!!

[Cheryl Watson]

Sorry I have not been online...

What Jim said.

The center flat slotted is stainless steel,  http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#slotted-stainless-steel/=yed02x

And I use the 3/8" conduit strap to hold the flat slotted firmly against the threaded rod to have a tight connection to conduct the current.

I also have other sizes of conduit straps, for the times I use a thicker threaded rod  :)  (with three different electro designs, I have a lot of hardware... all stainless steel :)  )   'They' say I have a Stainless Fetish   :D

But all the nuts, bolts and washers will last forever with no rust or corrosion to interfere with conduction.... ;)

[Jeff Friend]

Something you might want to keep in mind . . .

All of the hardware on the cathode (negative) side can be plain, old carbon steel.  It is not going to corrode when current is flowing and when the current is off, the high pH keeps the metal passive and it will not oxidize.

The anode is another story.