Had to build a new electro

[Jim Fuchs]

 Well, it was bound to happen. Because of the size of the last piece of iron acquired, had to build a new electro. Wanted to make it so I could raise & lower the pieces, be able to lock it in place, adjustable in height for the support bar, etc. Some pictures of what I worked on. The drum liner is 304 stainless, the "negative buss" is Inconel 600 (as well as the "handle") The cables are vinyl coated, clamps and "s" hooks are stainless. Then a picture of the piece in the tank...

[Jim Fuchs]

   A picture of why it was needed. Keep in mind this is a 55 gallon drum. When the piece is done, I'll post specs on the membership side. It is a Phoenix Works logo (on one side), and John Savery & Son opposite. Weighs in at a bit over 29 pounds !

[Jim Fuchs]

Forgot to show the top detail...two pulleys to aid in raising the pieces. The all thread rod is held with Sammys threaded rod anchoring system. Most of the materials I had on hand. Only had to get the stainless sheets (2), and the cable clamps. The reason Inconel was used was it was given to me (came from a shop that works with high temp./ pressures). Been running for 6 hrs. now.

[Mark R. Smith]

Have to say WOW great work.

[Jim Fuchs]

 Thank you Mark. :)

[C. Perry Rapier]

Jim I do believe thats the most extravagant electro I've ever seen. It reminds me of that laboratory that gave birth to Frankenstein. So I would not be surprised if you lifted up a head from that solution with all them wires and everything.  :o :o :o

And at the end of the day. Here is what I wanna know. How does it work? If it works half as good as it looks it does a marvelous job. Cheryl will be wanting one of them.  ;D

[Cheryl Watson]

I am now permanently cross-eyed, trying to figure out the wiring configuration. 

You are not allowed to use your engineering skills to cause my insomnia issues to increase... ;D ;D

Thank goodness I do not have any monster pieces to clean in the near future...  ::)

[Jim Fuchs]

 Thanks guys. It worked great, and hopefully can finish the kettle tomorrow. Believe it's a 5 gallon...and interestingly easy to clean. It floats until about half full, then when lifting, tip the kettle when raising to lighten the load. Cheryl, no fancy wiring actually. The negative is fastened to a "buss" bar, from which several leads can be attached. The positive(for the anode), placed on a large T&B (Thomas & Betts) terminal lug, then goes to six (6) points all the way around the barrel, fastened with stainless bolts/washers to the stainless sheeting to ensure good connection . I used #10 AWG wire to interconnect the lugs. I think I spent more time looking in my garage for the parts, than it took to build.  ;D

[Cheryl Watson]

Well, at least I am not the only-ist one that exhibits the stainless steel fetish....... :D

[C. Perry Rapier]

Jim your setup reminds me of a scalding tank for killing hogs on the farm. You dip them down into the hot scalding 55 gallon drum of water so you could scrape the hair off. Thats how bathtubs got popular for people use. The tubs with the slanted back were so a hog could be slid down in the hot water easy without splashing hot water on you. In the summer people would use to bath in outside and somebody got the idea that maybe we could bring this into the house.

SO, Jim your setup reminds me of one of the lowering cables and pulleys used on a farm at hog killing time. I like it.  ;)

[Jim Fuchs]

 Perry, thank you.  Makes it much easier so I don't have to bend over (back issues), so when the support is in the raised position, it's at a comfortable working height.

[Jim Glatthaar]

That is quite a feat of engineering, Jim.  I could see how you could spend so much time looking for parts in your garage.  I'm amazed you had enough parts to complete it. 

[Jim Fuchs]

 Jim, thank you. You know how that goes...being involved in very large projects over many years (now retired) , coupled with a 36' wide garage...that hardware seems to gravitate & multiply.  ;D  Finally had a project that I could utilize some of that "stuff" we always convince ourselves we need. 

[Jim Fuchs]

 Not to get too far off subject, but over the years for example, I worked as a outside contractor for a large chemical plant. When they were bought by another large concern, corporate had national contract for specific vendors. These suppliers come in & set up all electrical & mechanical supplies, and if the existing parts/ hardware were not on the "approved" list, they were thrown away! I saw dumpster after dumpster of perfectly good parts thrown out...so, one of my friends happen to be the maintenance manager, and I got the o.k. to dumpster dive...couldn't begin to list the things that were tossed.

[Jim Glatthaar]

I love it, dumpster diving your way to success  :o

[Jim Fuchs]

I love it, dumpster diving your way to success  :o

   LOL..BLTDD (better living through dumpster diving)

           Wanted to explain why the positive is "daisy chained " all around the drum.(the # 10 AWG wire in the "lugs" around the top) The redundancy is to ensure the reliability of the critical component- in this case, ensuring good contact with the anode(s). Two sheets of stainless, each with three connection points via nuts/ bolts/ washers (stainless) so, if one or more contact(s) were to be an issue, the next connection can carry the circuit. Each is externally connected to one another by using the terminal connectors, so a bad connection at one point wouldn't be a problem. You could actually have five (5) bad/poor connections on the anode(s), and still have 180 degrees of the inside circumference with a working anode (one of the sheets). I figured it was better than "wiggling" the wire/clamp to get it working. ;D Not that it ever happened to me  ::) One connection (per anode) would work, but what the heck...had the time and materials.
            The other thing is, when the support bar is lowered, there are four (4) supports holding ...both "down rods", and , when lowered, the lift handle is up against the two anchored pulleys (this can be done because the all thread rods are adjustable via the stop nuts. Everyone has their own way of doing a set up, just wanted to share one idea. FWIW