Cleaning Electro - Reverse & SS Chromium

[Sandy Glenn]

I know it's been discussed on here before, but has anyone successfully reversed the hook-ups to clean the anode?  I'm thinking anode as in SS barrel where a reversal would be easier than dumping the solution and refilling.  Thanks for your input.  Sandy

[Roger Barfield]

Sandy, I've been using the SS barrel for quite a while and it has no build up or need to clean it.  Does yours?  I use the same solution and just add water for what evaporates and it works just like it did when I set it up.

[Sandy Glenn]

Roger, I haven't been using one that long... was asking for future reference.  With my old set-up where I was using SS steam table covers for anodes, I had to clean them about every three weeks because they got so rusty looking and grungy.  Also ran a little more efficiently after that.  I figured cleaning would be necessary with a barrel, too.  

[Roger Barfield]

I think it depends on the type of stainless you are using.  These barrels from Perry are super high quality. (Don't tell him I said that though) ;)  I've read that different grades of stainless would corrode and deteriorate over time.   I think Greg has been using the same barrel for a few years now withought any problems.

[ysageev]

My stainless gets buildup but it doesn't interfere.  I reach under water with a spatula once in a while and scrape it off.  Haven't changed the water in 3 months and it works fine.

I have tried reversing the polarity to clean the container.  It does not clean nearly enough of the iron out of the water in order to really be useful.  My water is filthy.  ::)

[Greg Stahl]

I accidently reversed the polarity with a #2 Favorite skillet as the 'reciever' and MAN did it receive all the junk.  After I ruined the skillet, I was able to scoup the scum off the top.

So I guess the answer is that you can reverse it and it will clean off the sides of the barrel.  Just don't use a #2 Favorite skillet or any other #2 skillet for that matter, LOL.

[maloney108]

Is there any concern about Chromium while using a Stainless steel anode?  Since stainless is any where from 8% to 20% chromium, There's a possibility that chromium, both trivalent and pentavalent (the real BADDY - as in Erin Brokavitch bad!!! ) can get into the solution.  I searched the web about this and got conflicting answers, but one site claimed that if your solution turns yellow, you're getting chromium (actually chromate ions) out of the stainless.

I did find one site, a marine iron conservation site, that claims that soft steel mesh (the kind stucco contractors use) is even better than stainless as an anode and you can form it around your piece for more efficient electrolysis!  Here's the link:

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/class/anth605/File10a.htm#D.C.%20Power

It seems that if you keep your pH up with enough Sodium Carbonate, the anode stays cleaner.

I also ran across some sites that auto restorers run and thay are WAY crazy.  some of the rigs they use gave me the willies!  They'll throw just about any chemical into the bath and crank up the current to 80 Amps and laugh when it boils and their garage is full of smoke and steam.  If I find the site again, I'll post it for a good laugh.

Cheers,

Jim Maloney

[C. Perry Rapier]

When I sold Roger Barfield his barrel, he said he wanted two after he finally got me down to fifty cents each on the price. And he made me pay the shipping too, said he'd pay me the first or second. When I asked him about it, he said what he meant was, he'd pay me that dollar the first chance he got, or the second he had too.  ;D

[ysageev]

If you do want to reverse the polarity to clean the anode, use something with a large surface area like an old barbecue grill.  Given the amount of stuff in my soup it didn't do a good enough job.

The best way to clean the container is to let it sit for a couple days and let the stuff settle to the bottom, pour the "clean" water into another container, and scrub the tub. I think Roger suggested this a while back. Haven't done it yet since I'm getting good throughput.

[Greg Stahl]

Is there any concern about Chromium while using a Stainless steel anode?  Since stainless is any where from 8% to 20% chromium, There's a possibility that chromium, both trivalent and pentavalent (the real BADDY - as in Erin Brokavitch bad!!! ) can get into the solution.  I searched the web about this and got conflicting answers, but one site claimed that if your solution turns yellow, you're getting chromium (actually chromate ions) out of the stainless.

It is actually the hexavalent form that is the bad guy.  I have measured the chromium in my setup after running it for awhile and did not measure any more chromium difference from the beginning of the solution til after use.  Since I don't throw mine away, and just add water, I'm not worried about it.

[maloney108]

Thanks, Greg,

First for the info and second for the correction - I'm a chemist and I should know better!  Next time I get a few pieces, I'm giving electro a shot although I can't complain about the Lye bath/vinegar bath results.

Cheers,
Jim Maloney

[Greg Stahl]

Jim,
once you try electro,you'll never use lye and vinegar again.  Also, you don't need to use SS, as many of our members don't use SS in their baths.  The electrobath is really really slick, fast and complete.

Cheers back at ya,

[curiousmom]

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolysis.pdf

It is entitiled, "Electrolytic Rust Removal"
Author: Ted Kinsey

I ran across this today, and the author warns against using stainless because of the production of hexavalent chromium.  

"A Simple Setup by Bob Smith"  (Setup 3) looks so easy I'm going to try it if the 15 year old oven cleaner from our garage doesn't work well.
Any hints about how to  find a cheap battery charger?

Thanks,
Jane

[Duke Gilleland]

I wpold check the warranties, Sears vs  Harbor FT. See who offers the best bang for the buck ;)

[Wesley Schultz]

Could you use this one and set it in the 55 amp mode?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3418

[Roger Barfield]

That setting is for jump starting a car.  I would get one that does the sustained 40 amp charging.

This is the type at sears which is like what I use.  They put them on sale sometimes for $85 I think.  I've also seen this kind at Sam's for about $90.   Mine has a 2 hour timer which can be a pain, but it keeps it from getting too hot.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Electrical+Shop&pid=02871230000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Battery+Chargers+%26+Boosters&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

[curiousmom]

Thanks everyone.  But, back to the charger that Bob proposed, which is only $29 as opposed to $89.

Would it work?  Could you use it at 10 amps and be patient?

Thanks,
Jane

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3418

[Roger Barfield]

Thanks everyone.  But, back to the charger that Bob proposed, which is only $29 as opposed to $89.

Would it work?  Could you use it at 10 amps and be patient?

Thanks,
Jane

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3418

Yes, it will work and will take longer.  You can use any DC charger to power the electro, but I wouldn't use the quick start/ boost setting if it has one.   If you do buy the cheaper one, just remember that you get what you pay for.

[Paul Hummel]

Jane  that charger will work but it will be slow. Chargers with automatic systems will even work slower because it will jump from 10 amp setting to trickel amp when it sensors start to get warm. If the charger can be set to hold a set charging amp of 10 it will work but it will work slow. The higher amp setting would be better let's say around 40 amp. But the 10 amp charger that can be set on 10amp and not cut down to trickel will work but as said slower.

Paul H.

[C. Perry Rapier]

Man that Paul is an electro hound ain't he?  ;)

Listen to him, electro this, amp that, charging amp, sensors, trickle charge, 40 amp vs. 10 amp, automatic systems vs. manual, and longer time vs shorter time. He's got'er down now.  :)