Author Topic: Detroit Iron & Brass MFG Waffle Iron (Read 10211 times)

Mike Bohannon · « **on:** June 05, 2006, 08:55:42 PM »

I just purchased a Detroit Iron & Brass MFG waffle iron size 7&8. There a size 8&9 like it on the Founderies Link. Mine is really cruded up. I think I can electro and keep the wood handle out of the soup but any suggestions on seasoning? I usually season in an oven, but don't think the wood handle or paint on it would fair to well. I don't think removal of the handle is possible without damage. I don't know who owns the one with pics in the Foundry link. Any suggestions on how to season? Grill with wood handle sticking out is my only thought. I'm on the road for work so pics not available for a day or two. Mike

ysageev · « **Reply #1 on:** June 05, 2006, 09:53:12 PM »

Mike, I have a "Detroit" #10 popover pan which I just got on sunday. I will post a pic tomorrow when it is out of the soup. I'm also very curious about this foundry, if it is the same one.

Steve_Stephens · « **Reply #2 on:** June 05, 2006, 09:58:39 PM »

Mike, if you plan to cook waffles in your iron just start out cooking them. But you have to first spray with Pam or some other oil. Until the waffles start coming out nicely don't fully fill the pans and they won't be as prone to sticking to the edges.

Steve

Mike Bohannon · « **Reply #3 on:** June 05, 2006, 10:29:20 PM »

Yair- I'm interested also, post pics, I like to see eveyones stuff.
Steve-I didn't really buy as a user, but your advice from earlier posts came to mind-clean it and use it, it'll season . :)- Mike

Harry Riva · « **Reply #4 on:** June 06, 2006, 12:34:20 AM »

Are the Detroit muffin pans from the same foundry as the Detroit Iron and Brass waffle irons? I thought they were two separate entities but I don't really know.
Harry

Dimlock · « **Reply #5 on:** June 06, 2006, 12:29:20 PM »

Hi, Mike!

I zapped one just like yours in my setup. I wrapped the wood in a couple of layers of that new Press and Seal wrap, and then suspended the wood handle just out of the soup with string. The wrap kept the water from getting to the good patinia of the wood. The iron part of the handle had a line across it when it was finished cleaning, but I buffed it out with a stainless scouring pad. You couldn't tell the difference, especially when it was seasoned. I seasoned it on the stove top, and it looks great.

Good luck,

Jesse

Mike Bohannon · « **Reply #6 on:** June 06, 2006, 04:55:06 PM »

Thanks- Jesse. I wasn't too worried about cleaning just wasn't sure of the best method of seasoning so came here for advice and suggestions. I thought the way the handle flips the irons and and also opens them was neat. Paint is still on the wood handle, lot of crude on outside of irons, it took awhile to read the info. A couple of pics before it hits the soup.

Mike Bohannon · « **Reply #7 on:** June 06, 2006, 04:55:39 PM »

pic #2

ysageev · « **Reply #8 on:** June 06, 2006, 05:07:49 PM »

Wow Mike, that is one gorgeous waffle iron. I'm jealous.

My popover pan is not nearly as beautiful but I'll post pics as well -- not sure (indeed) if it is that same foundry.

ysageev · « **Reply #9 on:** June 06, 2006, 05:08:08 PM »

back, note 3 gate marks

C. Perry Rapier · « **Reply #10 on:** June 06, 2006, 05:30:27 PM »

Mike, I have a G.F. Filley waffle iron that has that same kind of handle turning, flipping over, thing a ma jiggy device. They work slick. Them old boys and gals back then knew how to get er done.

Mike Bohannon · « **Reply #11 on:** June 06, 2006, 05:37:00 PM »

Nice pan Yair! I hope some of the "Old Pro's" can fill us in on if it is the same foundry or not.

Perry- I like mechanical things and I must have flipped this thing a hundred times while looking at it before I bought it. There was alot of thought that went into the design to get all the functions and yet it's still simple. Pat. date on this is 1877. Mike

C. Perry Rapier · « **Reply #12 on:** June 06, 2006, 09:33:46 PM »

Mike, when I hold an old piece like that I think of others before me who have done the same thing. Just think, that item was delivered by a horse and wagon. Kinda cool if you think about it.

I like old things like that too. Enterprise manufacturing out of Philadelphia, Pa. never ceases to amaze me. Just when I think I have seen every old machine for a 19th Century kitchen, here comes another Enterprise. And the fact that we have them today is a testomonial to their engineering and ability to hold up.

A person can't name too many things that were made in 1877 circa and still doing their job just as good as they did the day they were made?

Mike Bohannon · « **Reply #13 on:** June 06, 2006, 10:16:58 PM »

Another question- how was the wood handle installed on this? Cast iron once it is poured is not able to be bent without being broken, heating and bending is also very difficult or impossible without breaking. How the heck do you get a painted piece of wood in there? Mike

Steve_Stephens · « **Reply #14 on:** June 06, 2006, 10:34:08 PM »

Quote

...how was the wood handle installed on this? Cast iron once it is poured is not able to be bent without being broken, heating and bending is also very difficult or impossible without breaking. How the heck do you get a painted piece of wood in there? Mike

Good question Mike. Possible answers:
1. The handle is a forging and, thus, malleable.
2. The handle is made of malleable cast iron. I don't know if that material is malleable enough to bend the piece onto the handle.
3. Old tyme magic; secret long ago lost.

Steve

C. Perry Rapier · « **Reply #15 on:** June 06, 2006, 10:57:48 PM »

The piece that goes through the handle is not cast iron. It is steel, like a bail on a dutch oven, and then the ends are heated and flattened out so that it will not come off. Thats the way mine is anyway.

Mike Bohannon · « **Reply #16 on:** June 06, 2006, 11:52:28 PM »

Cast steel instead of cast iron? I think too much detail to be hand forged steel, cast steel possible, they made horse shoes back then . I can work with steel- cast iron is a different story, I'm still learn'n. Mike

Steve_Stephens · « **Reply #17 on:** June 07, 2006, 12:19:36 AM »

Quote

The piece that goes through the handle is not cast iron. It is steel, like a bail on a dutch oven, and then the ends are heated and flattened out so that it will not come off. Thats the way mine is anyway.

That's what I first thought but could not see any pin through the handle.
Mike, is there a rod or pin that goes through the wood handle that is not part of the iron part of the handle?

Steve

Mike Bohannon · « **Reply #18 on:** June 07, 2006, 08:04:15 PM »

Steve- any rod or axle is part of the handle, no hole where a pin, rod, or axle was added. It fits very tight to the handle so cannot see between wood and metal, wood can be rotated but with resistance. I think Perry and yourself are correct. It has to be some type of malleable metal that was squeezed together on the handle after being made. Just don't want to try to spread and say "OOPS!" when it breaks!!Mike

Mike Bohannon · « **Reply #19 on:** June 10, 2006, 10:44:48 AM »

A couple of pics of Detroit Iron and Brass MFG waffle iron (7&8) after cleaning and seasoning.

Pic #1

News:

Author Topic: Detroit Iron & Brass MFG Waffle Iron (Read 10211 times)

ysageev

Steve_Stephens

Dimlock

ysageev

ysageev

Steve_Stephens

Steve_Stephens